Showing posts with label Colombia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colombia. Show all posts

Monday, January 28, 2013

Many Years of Silence


            My son and I are alone, waiting for church to commence.  The room starts filling.  People squeeze into every seat, yet our row remains empty. Five minutes pass, then ten.  I begin to feel self-conscious.  Still, no one sits next to us. 
            Do we look funny?  Do we smell strange?  No, we simply don't speak the same language. 
            Memories of my grandma with her thick Finnish accent cram into my mind.  I wonder if she experienced the same emotions trying to communicate as an immigrant to America that I feel transplanted in Colombia.  Something as simple as sitting in church, a place where one should find comfort, can become an alienating experience, locking one into silence.
            Learning another language has been a difficult and emotional task.  A Scandinavian proverb says:  “Eyes that do not cry, do not see.”  Mine have become puddles with no vision.
            Just this week I have run into a fresh wrinkle in my language progress. Verbs. Words that tell us what we are doing with objects. The computer shows me that I have one green apple, but what am I going to do with that fruit?  Do I want to have the apple? Buy the apple? Eat the apple? Throw it at the screen?  From the pictures on Rosetta Stone, I can usually infer what action will take place, but often enough I randomly choose what photo goes with the corresponding sentence.
            Knowing what I am doing seems rather important, so I find myself in a state of crisis. I stare at the monitor and cry, then think of how silly I am and force myself to continue. Then I cry some more. I begin wondering how you say words such as "failure" or "incompetent" in Spanish. I panic.
            I have tasted the bitterness of tears.  As my eyes clear, I contemplate what my ancestors encouraged me to see through this experience.  An immigrant thread weaves through our societies.  People move from their countries for reasons such as war, education, health care, improved economics, religious freedom, and to join family.  Some even go for adventure.
            Seeing my grandparents build a loving relationship while communicating in each of their second languages inspires me.    As humans, we want to cling to the familiar.  When all has been left behind, any tangible remembrance of one's past is comforting.  My grandparents settled in a neighborhood with several Scandinavian families.  They attended a church, which held services in Swedish.  My grandma subscribed to a newspaper written in Finnish from Michigan's upper peninsula.  As often as possible, they would travel over an hour to attend a Finnish church service. 
            Karina Rodriguez, a Spanish teacher for the American Embassy in Bogota, says, “The success of learning a language is what motivates you to do it.”
            My mother, Ethel Steffey, recalls a story about her sister that caused my grandparents to speak only English in the home.  “They knew Ruth would be starting school and needed to speak English.”  One day when she was talking, some ladies heard her and thought the mix of languages was really cute.  “They laughed at her – not to make fun of her, though.  Ruth realized they were laughing at her and she stopped talking.  The story is that when she started talking again, she spoke only English.”
            I found that learning a foreign language is a very emotional thing.  Karina tells me: “We have to be prepared for all the emotional challenge that it will bring, which is not necessarily a bad thing or a sign that we are weak or less professional, or not very intelligent, it is just a sign that we are human, so we should always express how we are feeling, get frustrated, cry and then get over it and keep trying!”
            Continual effort does not come quickly or easily.  Ivan Franson, my uncle, comments: “I believe both grandma and grandpa learned what English they knew and expressed by long interaction with English-speaking people.  It was a lifetime experience for them.”
            Resident, Berthica Cardenas, is also finding that learning English does not happen overnight.  Having escaped oppression in Cuba she joined family in America.  Upon meeting her I thought she was quiet.  After years of hanging out, I found she was spunky, and that only a language barrier was silencing her.  Because she had no background in English, moved at a later point in life and lost her professional objectives, her language learning proceeded slowly.  Although Spanish is often spoken among family and friends, she doesn't stay away from English.  “We don't avoid opening  up our social environment.  We love to meet American families and exchange with them.”  Says this Cuban émigré.
            Some things change throughout history.  Television, internet, finding information and entertainment in our native tongue is easier than ever.  Modern communication allows us to stay in touch with those back home.  Feelings of isolation diminish.  The immediacy of technology lessens the need to learn the language and immerse in local culture. 
             Taking a close look at where I came from and my experience trying to live with a foreign language, I realize the truth of what Mark Twain wrote in his Innocents Abroad:  “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.  Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”

12/12

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Beyond Leticia

The City Paper

Kristen Faber heads to a remote corner of the Amazon where Peru and Brazil converge along the banks of the Yavari.

Looking out the plane window, awe overtook me as I gazed down at the beginning of the Amazon Basin in Colombia.  I saw thick, lush rainforest in every direction.  My eye followed a river snaking through the bush.  Small waterways spread out like a spiderweb prohibiting any easy land transportation.  There were no villages or roads.

We land in Leticia, Colombia’s frontier town on the Amazon River and 800 kms from the nearest highway, the only access here is plane or boat.  Sweltering heat hits me as I walk into this one room airport. The clunking sound of the luggage conveyor bounced around the room, growing louder as the gears stuck from time to time. Grabbing my small suitcase I searched for my ride. I stepped out of the airport and spotted a young boy perched on a brick wall, flapping a paper with my name on it. He wasn’t paying particular attention to the crowd of people climbing into air-conditioned vans headed for hotels with pools. His father did spot me however, and he deftly flagged a taxi for our 20 minute ride to the river. 

         We cross Leticia as motorcycles zip every which way, cutting in and out of traffic. At first glimpse the Amazon seems fetid and languid. Vultures circle overhead, scouting for refuse while others picked at scraps. The smell of hot, sticky mud mixed with grilling food attacks my sense of place and sense. Colorful umbrellas shelter women selling their snacks. People lounge under s few trees, avoiding the heat while a barefoot man walks past with a mountain of plantains on his shoulder. 
         The city slopes into the thick muddy river bank of a seemingly distant Amazon. I walk the wooden plank over the low tide to a floating dock. As passengers leap from dugout to dugout, we quickly board our long boat and I find a seat beneath the woven palm roof to protect me from the scorching sun.  The motor bubbles to life as we pull away from Leticia. Floating houses line the river, some sun-bleached, other brightly-painted. 

We head down river flanked by two countries, Colombia and Peru. After a routine check at a Navy control post, we can appreciate the Victoria Amazonica Lilly floating with its white flower in nearby ponds. A monkey appears and hops on my shoulder for the free ride. We arrive at our floating lodge for the night. Charming hammocks line the balcony. My fellow travelers kick back in the open air, grab a seat on the upper deck and we all prepare to watch the last moments of the  sun set on the Amazon.
         Day Two. The river teems with families, young and old, men and women, checking their nets. They work their way down the webbing, gently lifting it out of the water, gathering it in their hands, carefully untangling a fish then letting the net drop back into the water. They continue to work, meticulously moving down the net heedful not to rip any holes. Life revolves around survival. Resting in the boat for the next six hours, my journey takes me towards Brazil.  The boat turns off the Amazon River near Benjamin Constant into the Yavari, a river which flows some 1,200 kms from the Peruvian highlands into the Amazon Basin, and still very much unchartered.

The Yavari is lighter in color than the Amazon and a meandering waterway coveted by a vast canopy of rainforest. From Benjamin Constant south a new world unfurls before me. I watch as grey river dolphins leap out of the water, my eyes peeled for the Pink Amazon Dolphin, an endangered species which navigates and hunts in the estuaries of the Yavari.

As we make our way downriver I am engulfed by the life around me.  Parrots dart between trees, dolphins splash in shallow waters and fish leap into our boat. In the stillness there is life. 

Small towns perched on hillocks are far apart and only accessible by water. We pull into Atalaya, Brazil, to stretch our legs and wander the local market. Flanked by the Yavari’s yellow sand banks we are guided by an eagle soaring overhead until pulling into an estuary near our Eco lodge. We are five hours from Benjamin Constant and the Amazon crossroads with the Yavari.

Eco-Lodges such as Palmari and Heliconia, both nestled along the Yavari, are quickly immerse you in the Amazonian mindset.  After paddling a dugout to a nearby lagoon and baiting hooks, we catch some piranha.

Recreation along the Yavari not just river games and jungle walks. The lodges are educationally-focused, desigbned to educate the visitor on Amazonian life, local traditions of nearby communities and the abundant and often threatened wildlife.

         The water level of the Amazon changes constantly. In rainy season the level can rise 15 meters covering vast forest, turning fields into flood plains. During the dry season, the Yavari retreats, exposing kilometers of white sand, turning swampy lagoons into watering holes for sloths, tapirs and wild deer. Visiting at the beginning of the dry season, the water has dropped so far some 4 meters causing a variation in leaf color and leaving a mark on tree trunks.  The ground soaks in the water creating thick muddy banks.  As we left the base of giant Ceiba tree all I can see is abundant greenness. 
         After two hours trekking through mud and swinging a machete to open the path, I step into the riverine village of Santa Rita, Peru. The village is neat with a manicured central field, some wooden huts overlooking the river and open kitchens and suspended pots and pans. There is an aura of peace.  A local offers me a creamy white yucca juice and invites me into her home to see a large fish the village had caught earlier that day. Taking up most of the kitchen floor the pirarucu is known for its size and soft meat. The fish generally swims on the surface of the water making it is easy to spear from canoes.


When the sun begins to cast its golden hue over the canopy of trees, we head back to our lodge and can hear the cooks preparing a typical Brazilian dinner of yucca farinha, beans and plantain. Another day is ending on the Yavari, but the night has yet to go into overdrive. As the first stars sparkle above the tree line I can spot the Southern Cross. I know that I cannot stay here but I am glad to have seen and touched the wonders of this fragile corner which must be protected by the countries which share the Amazon, beyond Leticia


11/01/2012